A Highland Plunge: Wild Swimming at Loch Skeen, Grey Mare's Tail
Discover one of Scotland's most breathtaking wild swimming locations nestled high in the Southern Uplands.
The secluded Loch Skeen on a beautiful summers day
The Magic of Wild Swimming in Scotland
Scotland's rugged landscapes offer some of the most pristine wild swimming experiences in Europe. From sheltered sea lochs to remote mountain pools, the country's waters invite the brave to immerse themselves in nature's cold embrace. While the chilly temperatures may give pause, the rewards are immeasurable: crystal clear waters, spectacular surroundings, and that incomparable feeling of connection with Scotland's wild heart.
Wild swimming in Scotland has experienced a renaissance in recent years, with more people discovering the physical and mental benefits of cold-water immersion. But beyond the health aspects, there's something profoundly spiritual about floating in waters shaped by ancient geological forces, surrounded by landscapes that have inspired poetry and folklore for centuries.
The Grey Mare’s Tail Waterfall
Dumfries and Galloway's Hidden Gem
We here at Scotland Unfolded think Dumfries and Galloway is an under-appreciated part of the country, and there is nowhere better to start than Loch Skeen at the Grey Mare's Tail. While the North Coast 500 and the Isle of Skye draw crowds of tourists each year, this southern region offers equally stunning vistas without the throngs of visitors.
Tucked away in the Moffat Hills, Loch Skeen presents a wild swimming experience unlike any other. What makes this wild swimming spot unique is its location 510m high, surrounded by Lochcraig Head, Mid Craig, and the summit of White Coomb with picturesque views in every direction. This corrie loch, carved by glacial forces thousands of years ago, sits like a jewel in a rocky crown.
The stream leading from Loch Skeen to the Grey Mare’s Tail Waterfall
Getting There
You can fit it in during a trip to Glasgow with it only being a 90-minute drive away. The journey through the rolling borders countryside is a pleasure in itself, with the landscape gradually becoming more dramatic as you approach the Moffat Hills.
A well-kept, sizeable car park awaits at the base of the trail, though it can fill quickly on sunny summer weekends, so arriving early is advisable. The National Trust for Scotland maintains the site, with a small visitor center providing information about the area's natural history.
Make sure you stop en route at Cairn Lodge Services. Not your normal service station with its Farmshop and the historic Gate House of Douglas Castle, it offers a perfect opportunity to stock up on local provisions for a post-swim picnic. The artisanal cheeses and freshly baked goods are particularly recommended for refueling after your invigorating dip.
Wild Mountain Goats on the path of the Grey Mare’s Tail nature reserve
The Ascent
We aren't going to guide you up the trail as we will leave that to the excellent Walk Highlands website, which provides detailed route maps and descriptions. But prepare yourself for a journey through some of Scotland's most dramatic scenery.
The walk through the trail takes in the region of 1-1.5 hours and is moderately challenging. The path climbs steadily alongside the thundering Grey Mare's Tail waterfall—one of the UK's highest at 60 meters—where water cascades dramatically down the steep rockface. Sturdy footwear is essential, as the path can be slippery, especially after rainfall.
The hike to Loch Skeen takes you through the Grey Mare's trail which boasts one of the UK's highest waterfalls and an abundance of wildlifee, sharp-eyed visitors might spot peregrine falcons diving through the air or the rare feral goats that have roamed these hills for centuries. In spring and early summer, the hills come alive with wildflowers, creating a colorful tapestry across the slopes.
Flocks of sheep surround Loch Skeen
The Swim
Cresting the final rise to reveal Loch Skeen is a moment of pure wonder. The dark waters of the loch stretch before you, surrounded by the amphitheater of craggy peaks. On a still day, the mountains are mirrored perfectly on the water's surface, creating a doubled landscape of extraordinary beauty.
Entering the water here is an experience that engages all senses. The initial shock of cold gives way to exhilaration as your body adjusts. Swimming in waters where perhaps few have ventured that day, or even that week, creates a profound sense of solitude and connection with the landscape.
Floating on your back, gaze up at the vast Scottish sky framed by mountain ridges, or look down to see your limbs suspended in water so clear you can sometimes spot brown trout darting below. The silence is punctuated only by the distant call of birds and the gentle lapping of water against the shore.
As always, be prepared and swim responsibly. Even in summer, a wetsuit is advisable for longer swims, and always swim with a partner or let someone know your plans. There are no lifeguards, no changing facilities, and no café for a hot chocolate afterwards—and that’s exactly the point. This is wild swimming in its truest form.
After your swim, warming up on the small shingle beach while taking in the panoramic views offers a moment of reflection. There's something transformative about having immersed yourself completely in this landscape—not just passing through as an observer, but becoming part of it, if only briefly.
The Grey Mare's Tail and Loch Skeen exemplify wild Scotland at its most accessible yet authentic. A place where the modern world seems to fall away, leaving only you and the ancient hills, the living water, and the endless sky. For wild swimmers seeking beauty, tranquility, and that perfect plunge into Scotland's natural heritage, this highland gem awaits your discovery.
A swimmer in Loch Skeen