The Italian Chapel: Orkney's Hidden Masterpiece
Amidst the windswept landscape of Lamb Holm, one of Orkney's smaller islands, stands what many consider to be Scotland's most remarkable wartime legacy. The Italian Chapel, known locally as the "Miracle of Camp 60," is a testament to human creativity, faith, and resilience that emerged from the darkest chapters of the 20th century. This extraordinary structure, crafted from the humblest materials by prisoners of war, has become one of Orkney's most cherished landmarks and a pilgrimage site for visitors from around the world.
The Italian Chapel, Orkney: Photo Credit: VisitScotland / Kenny Lam
A Chapel Born from Captivity
The story of the Italian Chapel begins in 1942, when over 1,300 Italian prisoners of war were brought to Orkney, with around 550 housed at Camp 60 on Lamb Holm. These men were captured during the North African campaign and tasked with constructing the Churchill Barriers, a series of causeways designed to protect the Royal Navy's anchorage at Scapa Flow from German U boat attacks. They found themselves in a stark, unfamiliar environment: treeless, wind battered, and far removed from their Mediterranean homeland.
Among the prisoners was Domenico Chiocchetti, a painter and decorator from the Dolomites, whose artistic vision would transform two humble Nissen huts into something approaching the divine. Initially, the prisoners requested a place of worship, and military authorities provided two basic corrugated iron huts. What followed would astonish even the most skeptical observers.
The interior of the Italian Chapel : Photo Credit: VisitScotland / Fionn McArthur
The Artist's Vision
Chiocchetti, working alongside fellow prisoners such as Giuseppe Palumbi and Domenico Buttapasta, began transforming the huts in 1943. Using salvaged materials, ingenuity, and an almost mystical dedication to their craft, they created what would become known as the most beautiful prisoner of war camp chapel in the world.
The chapel’s façade, one of its most photographed elements, was crafted from concrete shaped and painted to resemble weathered stone. Chiocchetti fashioned classical columns, a pediment, and a bellcote, complete with a decorative housing made from scrap metal. The attention to detail was extraordinary. Decorative elements that would typically require skilled stonemasons were recreated using nothing more than concrete, paint, and artistic vision.
Inside, the transformation was even more remarkable. The curved ceiling of the Nissen hut vanished beneath Chiocchetti's painted sky, adorned with flowing clouds and sacred imagery. The altar, constructed from concrete and plasterboard, was decorated with a reproduction of Nicolo Barabino's "Madonna and Child," painted from memory on salvaged plasterboard. Even the holy water font was ingeniously fashioned from the inner part of a car exhaust, covered with concrete.
Materials from Nothing
The ingenuity displayed in the chapel's construction speaks to both the resourcefulness of its creators and their unwavering commitment to their faith. Concrete was mixed by hand, wooden furnishings were carved from driftwood and packing crates, and decorative metalwork was shaped from any scrap that could be found around the camp.
The stained glass effect in the windows was achieved not with salvaged colored glass, as often assumed, but through painted panels set into wooden frames, mimicking the light and color of cathedral glass. The wrought iron rood screen, separating the nave from the chancel, was crafted from salvaged metal, twisted and shaped by hand into elegant gothic patterns, without proper tools but with immense skill.
The interior of the Italian Chapel : Photo Credit: VisitScotland / Fionn McArthur
The War's End and Beyond
When the war ended in 1945, the Italian prisoners were repatriated, leaving behind their extraordinary creation. Chiocchetti, before departing, left a letter asking that the chapel be preserved. His request would be honored in ways he could scarcely have imagined.
The local Orcadian community, initially wary of their Italian inhabitants, had grown to respect and even admire the prisoners during their years of shared island life. Many prisoners had been allowed to work on local farms, and genuine friendships had formed. When the Italians departed, the islanders made an informal pledge to maintain their legacy.
Preservation and Pilgrimage
In the decades following the war, the Italian Chapel became increasingly famous, drawing visitors from across the globe. Major restoration work began in the late 1950s. Remarkably, Domenico Chiocchetti returned to Orkney in 1960 to assist with the project. At 63, he spent several weeks on the island, restoring parts of the chapel and ensuring its preservation for future generations.
The chapel was again restored in the 1990s, with funds raised through international donations. In 1996, Orkney and Chiocchetti’s hometown of Moena signed a declaration of friendship, reaffirming the bond forged decades earlier. Today, the chapel remains both a working place of worship, used for weddings and special services, and a memorial to the prisoners who created it. An adjacent visitor center houses artifacts from the camp, personal effects of the prisoners, and detailed histories of the men who turned captivity into creation.
Planning Your Visit to Orkney
Reaching the Italian Chapel requires a journey to Orkney, itself an adventure that rewards the intrepid traveler. The islands are accessible by air from several Scottish cities, with Loganair operating regular flights from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Inverness to Kirkwall Airport. The flight from Edinburgh takes approximately one hour and offers spectacular aerial views of the Scottish coastline.
Alternatively, NorthLink Ferries operates services from Scrabster near Thurso and Aberdeen to Stromness. The Scrabster route, taking approximately 90 minutes, is particularly scenic and often provides opportunities to spot seals, dolphins, and seabirds. The Aberdeen route is longer, approximately six hours, but operates overnight services that allow travelers to wake up in Orkney’s magnificent natural harbor.
Once in Orkney, the Italian Chapel is easily reached by car or organized tour. Located on Lamb Holm, connected to the Orkney Mainland by the very Churchill Barriers the Italian prisoners helped construct, the chapel is approximately 10 minutes' drive from Kirkwall. The site offers ample parking and is accessible year round, though winter visitors should check weather conditions.
Exploring Orkney's Treasures
While the Italian Chapel alone justifies a journey to Orkney, the islands offer an abundance of experiences for both travelers and those with deeper island connections. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Skara Brae provides a remarkable window into Neolithic life, with a 5,000 year old village so well preserved that visitors can walk through rooms where ancient Orcadians lived and worked.
The Ring of Brodgar, often called the "Stonehenge of the North," offers a more contemplative experience. This Neolithic stone circle, set against the backdrop of Orkney's distinctive landscape, provides endless opportunities for photography and reflection. Nearby, Maeshowe chambered cairn houses one of Europe's finest collections of Viking runes, carved by Norse travelers who used the ancient tomb as shelter.
For those drawn to Orkney's military history, Scapa Flow’s legacy extends far beyond the Churchill Barriers. The natural harbor served as the Royal Navy's principal anchorage during both world wars and today offers some of Europe’s finest wreck diving. The sunken German High Seas Fleet, scuttled in 1919, provides underwater adventures for experienced divers, while boat tours offer surface glimpses of this underwater museum.
Nature enthusiasts will find Orkney’s wildlife exceptional, particularly its seabird colonies. The RSPB reserves at Birsay Moors and Cottascarth provide excellent birdwatching, while the dramatic sea cliffs around Yesnaby offer opportunities to observe puffins, gannets, and great skuas in their natural habitat.
Skara Brae, Orkney: Photo Credit: VisitScotland / Colin Keldie
The Italian Chapel, Orkney: Photo Credit: Vidarlo / CC BY-S.A 3.0
A Living Legacy
The Italian Chapel remains one of Orkney’s most compelling landmarks, a quiet but powerful reminder of how creativity and determination can endure even under difficult circumstances. Built by prisoners of war far from home, the chapel reflects not only their faith, but also their craftsmanship and sense of purpose.
Today, the chapel continues to serve both as a place of worship and a cultural site visited by people from around the world. Its preservation reflects a lasting bond between the Italian prisoners and the Orcadian community, who chose to value and protect what was left behind.
For visitors, the chapel offers an opportunity to reflect on an unusual chapter of wartime history, one in which art and cooperation left a legacy that outlived conflict. Its modest scale, improvised materials, and intricate details speak to the resilience of the human spirit in a quietly compelling way.
The chapel is open year round, with guided tours available during the summer months. Whether approached from a historical, architectural, or personal perspective, the Italian Chapel offers a thoughtful and memorable experience in the heart of the Orkney islands.