Two Wheels, Two Days: A Highland Ride Through Arran
The ferry from Troon moves steadily across the Firth of Clyde, carrying cyclists, walkers, and weekenders toward the rugged profile of Arran. Often called “Scotland in miniature,” the island rises from the water with a mix of craggy hills, quiet glens, and sweeping beaches—a compelling destination for those seeking open space and a slower pace.
Exploring Arran by bike over two days offers a different kind of connection. It’s not just about distance or speed, but about taking time to notice the landscape. With wild camping in the mix, the trip becomes more than a ride—it’s a chance to experience the island’s varied character up close, without screens, schedules, or noise.
The spectacular views of Arran’s highlands in Glen Rosa
Day One: Glen Rosa and a Night in the Hills
A late afternoon arrival in Brodick gives just enough time to settle in. Stepping off the ferry with panniers packed and pedals ready, there’s a quiet satisfaction in starting the journey on two wheels. A short ride through the village is a good chance to gather supplies and adjust to island time.
Brodick is more than just a transport hub. The village wraps around a broad bay, watched over by Brodick Castle and the sharp summit of Goatfell. A wood-fired pizza at Parlour by the water’s edge makes an ideal early stop. Its view across the bay and easygoing atmosphere make it a natural place to linger.
Views of Arran from the ferry
Pizza from the Parlour at Brodick Beach
From there, the route heads inland. A short uphill stretch leads out of the village into Glen Rosa, where the road narrows and the surroundings grow wilder. Eventually, tarmac gives way to gravel, and the final leg into the glen is done on foot. Bikes are locked to fence posts or stashed in the heather before the walk begins.
The hour-long hike into Glen Rosa is steady and scenic. The glen opens out into a wide valley, with a river winding through tussocky grass and bog cotton. Ideal camping spots are slightly off the obvious path—behind low rises or beside boulders, close enough to the water but out of sight of the trail.
As the light fades, the hills take on muted colours, and the first stars appear above the ridgeline. With only the sound of water and the occasional bird call, Glen Rosa offers a quiet, remote place to sleep.
Glen Rosa path
Glen Rosa river
Day Two Morning: Climbing the String and Visiting the Past
Morning brings a fresh view of the glen. The walk back to the bikes in softer light reveals small details missed the night before—lichen on rocks, faint deer paths, the quiet flow of streamlets across the trail.
Then comes the climb. The String Road begins near the Glen Rosa turnoff and rises quickly, cutting straight through the island’s central spine. It's a steady test of fitness, with little respite. Low gears and patience help, and the reward comes at the top: broad views in every direction and a well-earned sense of progress.
Those preferring an easier option can follow the longer perimeter road that loops around the island. The climbs are more gradual, and the sea is a near-constant presence. It’s a longer route, but no less scenic.
For those who do take the String, the descent to Blackwaterfoot is swift and satisfying, with the hills falling away to the coast. The village is small but welcoming, centred around a dark-sand beach. The Blackwater Bakehouse is a must-stop, offering good coffee, fresh bread, and a place to pause before the next leg.
Just past the village lies Machrie Moor. After a short cycle and walk inland, the moor reveals a collection of Bronze Age stone circles. Some are tall sandstone slabs, others rounded granite boulders—silent remnants of an ancient past. Excavations have found older timber structures here, as well as evidence of cremation and pottery. The layout suggests ritual and celestial alignment, and standing among the stones today feels quietly significant.
Not far away, a detour to King’s Cave adds another layer of history. The sea cave, reached by a looped coastal path, is linked—if loosely—to the legend of Robert the Bruce. Inside, carvings cover the walls, including Christian symbols and more recent graffiti. The space feels carved by time, both natural and human.
King’s Cave: Photo Credit: VisitScotland / Kenny Lam
Machrie Moor standing stone
Ruined building at Machrie Moor
Day Two Afternoon: Southward to Lagg and Silver Sands
Back in Blackwaterfoot, the Kinloch Hotel makes a reliable lunch stop. Overlooking the bay and serving classic local dishes, it’s a good place to rest before heading south.
The road to Lagg is gentle, winding through fields, quiet farmland, and low hills. Highland cattle graze in the pastures, and glimpses of the sea appear between trees. It’s a calmer, easier section of the route.
Lagg Distillery, perched above the coast, is a modern take on tradition. The building blends old and new, and the visitor centre offers tastings, food, and a look at how their single malts are made. The café is worth a stop, and the shop offers thoughtful gifts made on the island.
From Lagg, the road leads toward Silver Sands, one of Arran’s most peaceful beaches. The final stretch curves along coastal cliffs before descending to white sand and calm waters. The beach is popular in the day, but by evening it grows quiet again.
With a tent tucked behind the dunes, it’s a simple and serene place to spend the night. To the east, the ruins of Kildonan Castle sit on a rocky outcrop. Built in the 13th century, it once controlled sea routes to and from the Clyde. Now it’s just a silhouette on the skyline, a reminder of older times in this still landscape.
As night falls, the waves become background noise, and the stars emerge overhead—clearer here than almost anywhere else.
Views of Pladda Island from Silver Sands beach
The Final Ride Back
The next morning begins slowly. Packing up to the sound of the surf, the road north toward Brodick feels familiar but not the same. With the route reversed and the morning sun catching different angles, even repeated views feel refreshed.
The ride rolls gently, past farms and grazing cattle, under trees, and alongside stone walls. The pace is slower now, shaped more by reflection than urgency.
When Brodick appears again, the scene is unchanged: the castle, the ferry terminal, the shops opening for the day. But for the cyclist returning after two days on the island’s backroads, it feels like more than a return—it feels like closing a loop, both literal and personal.
Views of Goatfell from the Fisherman’s walk in Brodick
Practical Notes for the Trip
Cycling on Arran is rewarding, but some preparation goes a long way. The String Road is steep and sustained; those unfamiliar with hill climbing or carrying heavy gear may prefer the coast road. Either way, proper gearing and reliable brakes are essential.
Weather on Arran can be unpredictable. Rain, mist, and wind often roll in with little notice, especially in the higher central areas. Waterproof layers, gloves, and warm clothing are important year-round.
While there are shops and cafes dotted around the island, some stretches—like Glen Rosa and Machrie Moor—are more remote. It’s wise to carry food, water, and basic tools or spares.
Scotland allows wild camping, but it comes with responsibilities. Campers should leave no trace, stay away from homes and farmland, and be respectful of both the land and others using it. Glen Rosa and Silver Sands are popular but still offer room for privacy, especially in shoulder seasons.
With a bit of planning, two days on Arran becomes more than a short trip—it’s a reset. A chance to move through history, nature, and effort, all at a pace that allows for perspective.
Evening sunset at Silver Sands